56005 Tamiya M4 Sherman

56005 M4 Sherman with 105mm Howitzer by
 Tamiya
 

Note: this is the old 56005 kit that's still available, not to be confused with 56013/56014

Testers kit:

    Tamiya number 56005 (56006 is the full option kit with r/c installed but is not available in the UK)

M4 Sherman 105 mm Howitzer

• 1/16 Scale
• 2x RS380 Motors
• dmd unit
• Requires ordinary 2 channel radio gear, servos not required
• 7.2v battery
• Length 360 mm
• Width 183 mm
• Weight 2500g

The TO1 Tamiya dmd unit
Standard acoms receiver used and Tamiya 1400SP 7.2v battery.
 
What's in the box?

As usual for Tamiya The box art is very good and well illustrated. As you open the box you are greeted by separate boxes and compartments for the tracks, dmd unit, gearboxes, cast metal parts and tools. Underneath the boxes you find the instructions and transfers.
 
The instructions

The instructions are very good and clear with good diagrams as usual for Tamiya. The instructions are only 16 pages long they include troubleshooting, parts, painting and applying decals, and running your r/c
tank. 

CLICK HERE to download the parts list in pdf format
 
The chassis:

First you start off with the lower hull everything just screws in easily with a nice fit. Then you screw
the two gearboxes to the hull. The suspension units are made up of metal and plastic each suspension unit
has Two springs. Then attach all the plastic wheels with plastic hub caps. The hard bit of making the
tank is constructing the tracks, each track is made up of 76 links and each link is made up of 4 pieces
after 5 hours of finger hurting time the tracks are finished and surprisingly heavy. The tracks are made
of steel. Then you just stick in the receiver and dmd unit with double sided tape (supplied). The battery
should slot in by the side of the dmd unit. After that make sure you grease the gears with the grease
provided.  ONE THING I DID THAT WAS NOT DESCRIBED IN THE INSTRUCTION WAS I THREAD LOCKED THE GRUB SCREW ON THE AXLE TO THE GEARBOX because I heard from several other people that the axle became loose and came off.

The lower hull
 
The body:

After the chassis is completed its time to build the body. Everything just glues into place. I used
Loctite super glue because it seemed to bond the plastic quite well. Then the body just clips on to the lower hull.

The finished model except for the painting next to my 1/35th Scale M4A3 Sherman also by Tamiya.  You can see the metal suspension and drive sprocket
  
 
The turret:

The turret turns by hand and the Howitzer moves up and down these can be motorized later using the
Tamiya turret traverse (53400).
 
Detail:

The 1/16 M4 Sherman was first released by Tamiya in 1974.  The upper hull and turret still have 1974 printed underneath which tells us that nothing much has changed in detail.  The detail is actually alright for a r/c tank because its simple and stays where it should do.  The real M4 has more hooks and the machine gun has a ammo box and other details.

The real M4 Sherman with HVSS suspension and 105mm Howitzer

Painting

First I Sprayed the model in Halfords satin grey for a undercoat then the entire model was sprayed in
Humbrol No.76 Matt Olive. The lights were painted Humbrol No.11 and the machine guns were painted in
Tamiya Gun metal XF 56. The instructions provide Two colour schemes, the one like the picture on the
box or slightly different with dark yellow stripes on the turret and a dark yellow star on the hull. But I
opted for the colours on the box. I missed out the stars on the side of the hull and on the engine deck
because they didn't look very camouflage.

Suspension unit
 
The dmd unit

The dmd unit controls both the motors, it allows the tank to turn 360 degrees by turning each track in
opposite directions or it stops one track and keeps the other going or speeds one track up depending on
the speed. On the dmd unit there are 2 modes. Mode 1 allows each stick to control each motor, Mode 2
allows you to control the tank normally using the 2 channels like a car but full stick when turning makes
the tank turn on the spot by turning each track in opposite directions turning can also be done by
stopping 1 track in this mode
 
How well does it go then?

With the dmd unit on board the tank can crawl very slowly then you can accelerate to a walking speed
(which is actually quite fast for a tank).  It should last quite a while if it is looked after and the gearbox is lubricated.
 
A few tips when driving your Sherman and some other R/C tanks:

1. DO NOT DRIVE ON UN-LEVEL SURFACES SIDE ON, THIS WILL THROW YOUR TRACK (MAKE
THE TRACK COME OFF THE DRIVE SPROCKET)

2. DO NOT DRIVE INTO PEBBLES OR STICKS BECAUSE THEY WILL GET TRAPPED IN THE
WHEELS AND DRIVE SPROCKET AND DAMAGE YOUR TANK

3. WATCH OUT FOR WALLS WHEN CORNERING BECAUSE THE BACK END OF THE TANK CAN
SWING OUT AND DAMAGE YOUR TANK
 
Modifications

First I got rid of the aerial on the back and I replaced it with a metal aerial through the turret.  I plan to motorize the turret later watch this space.
 
Where can I buy this tank?

http://www.modelsport.co.uk in the UK
http://cgi.bagnallsmodels.force9.co.uk/acatalog in the UK
http://www.mark-1-tank.co.uk in the UK
http://www.towerhobbies.com in the US
http://www.dave4what.com/militarykits/index.asp in the US
http://www.hlj.com in Japan
 
More Pictures click on them to make them bigger.

In conclusion if your looking for a good quality r/c tank look no further.

Website produced by david bembridge for rcmv